Mulberry AW16 - A Fashion Flop?

" I want to instil a sense of British character and lineage back to the Mulberry brand, building on our heritage rather than creating something completely new. To be truly modern you need to have respect for the past." - Johnny Coca

 One of the most anticipated shows at this season London Fashion week - a lot of hype built up on social media, so much excitement with this being the first collection from the new creative director Johnny Coca and the first LFW show we have seen in a few seasons for Mulberry however sadly i was disappointed. I really loved the FW15 presentation, with its traditional roots, fabrications and the stunning leather pieces (read my round up here) but this one was just a step too far out of my comfort zone. For me it had no clear story, was missing the whimsical element that has been synonymous with the brand for many years and overall was just a little too punk/gothic for me. A heavy almost grunge theme running through the garments and styling (weird pirate earring was an odd choice on all the models) that all in all just didn't work for me, but i imagine there are many fashionistas out there who would love the collection and its eclectic style.

Mulberry for me is all about the bags so lets start there... A very mixed collection - initially hated it but now i have been able to see the bags in more detail there are aspects that have grown on me however i do not have the usual love, i have had in previous seasons for the collection.  Something about the heavy chains and studding detail put me off (too many bells and whistles for an investment piece), the simpler styles are much nicer and i can see the traditional Mulberry brand coming through but the punk styling has not been well received.  Even with the announcement that prices will be lowered back into the £500-£995 price bracket i am not convinced. The Clifton is the nicest new style, with its simple shape and gold hardware - this is the only one i would say that ticked all the boxes for me and i would consider investing in.

When it came to the clothing, there were a few looks that i thought had potential. With the collection centered around an autumnal palette of khaki, navy, burgundy and black mixed with bold punchy highlights of pink, cornflower blue and egg yolk yellow, there were some very wearable pieces. The quality in the garments is clear to see and shows in the fabrics chosen, the beautiful tailoring and craftsmanship. The oversized floral print used is exquisite particularly in the white and grey shirtdress, and adds a touch of softness to an otherwise hard collection. 

Now for the three looks that i really didn't like....outfits that were not what i associate with the brand and wasn't expecting to see on the catwalk. Clashing colours, odd looking garments, net style old lady shopping bags and worst of all for me, a dress that was essentially totally see through! Not feminine or pretty at all - a garment i would expect to see on the catwalk at Vivienne Westwood not Mulberry.

The final element of the collection was a big emphasis on shoes, a growth area for Mr Coca.  Again bold styling with chunky buckles, multi texture panelling and stud detailing however there is something about the chunky footwear that tickles my fancy but can't quite put my finger on it! 
All images from this post from Mulberry.com, lead Image credit: WWD.com

Just in case you missed it - watch the full show below..



Only the first season for the new man in charge and maybe i am just set in my ways with what i loved about the brand under Emma Hill. Will just have to wait and see what comes for SS17 but gone are the days of Roxanne, Tillie and Alexa! 

What did you make of this collection - Just your cup of earl grey or a little too punk?

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